DOINKER

 

Build Instructions

You just bought/printed/stole a Doinker kit!  Sweet!  It's a little different than standard designs so here's some tips on assembly.  Note: These build instructions are for the v1 and v2 models that use individual ESCs.  The v3 version only uses a 4-in-1 esc but the rest is the same.

 
 
Complete component kit

Complete component kit

Component Check

Make sure you have the minimum components required.

Doinker Frame
RotorX 2535 Props
110x Motors
FuriousFPV Piko BLX or favorite 20x20 hole spacing FC
ESCs
Rx
FX798T Camera or equivalent for FPV

Some of the frame kits come with prop cutter and other nice mounts. 


Receiver Setup

Solder up your SBUS wires on the back of the FuriousFPV Mini Rx. 

The 3D printed fits it like so. In this orientation, you can access the bind button from the bottom of the Doinker.

If you're using a different receiver, you can sticky mount it to the adapter, use the adapter as a spacer, or use your own spacers to fit your receiver of choice.

FuriousFPV Mini FrSky receiver in receiver adapter

FuriousFPV Mini FrSky receiver in receiver adapter


This configuration makes it the easier to run wires and also have the battery orientated correctly on the 90 degree struts

This configuration makes it the easier to run wires and also have the battery orientated correctly on the 90 degree struts

Receiver Placement

Place the RX in the frame.  NOTE the orientation!  This is shown with the front of the quad facing forward.  Take a look at the motor duct braces.  The weird looking ones are where your battery is going to go.  Also take note that the USB port on the Piko goes to the same side as the antenna on the Rx. This makes wiring easier and the Spektrum port on the Piko doesn't get in the way.  

Note:  Move your antenna to the other side of the duct from what is pictured to make room for Spektrum port.


Routing power leads through the receiver adapter

Solder your power leads to your Piko and run it down through the Rx adapter.

 

Click the picture for a blowup version of the FuriousFPV Piko BLX wiring diagram

There is a nice cut out for the power leads

There is a nice cut out for the power leads


Leaving a bit of extra wire will allow you to move the Piko around a bit and can fold between the two boards.

Leaving a bit of extra wire will allow you to move the Piko around a bit and can fold between the two boards.

Solder up your receiver

Go ahead and solder up your Rx to your Piko.  If you're using the FuriousFPV FrSky make sure to put a dab of solder across the two SBUS jumper pads on the Piko.


Solder up ESCs

This step is for v1/v2 frames with individual ESCs.  The v3 builder can mount their 4-in-1 on the bottom of the frame.

Next up you can setup your escs.  They slide into the slots on the side.  Depending on your ESC choice, you may need to remove or add shrink wrap to get them to fit snug. 

mportant!  Make sure the wire solder points are pointing the correct motor!  If following the orientation of the Piko in this setup, the motor leads should always point to the right.

 

v1 and v2 frames have little slots for the ESCs.  v3 frame does not.

v1 and v2 frames have little slots for the ESCs.  v3 frame does not.


Adding shrink tubing is optional but makes for a cleaner look.

Adding shrink tubing is optional but makes for a cleaner look.

Power and signal wire reorientation

Another step for v1/v2 owners.  v3 owner can route their power and signal wires up through the frame.

Remove the motor wires and it's a good idea to angle the power and signal leads towards the center of the frame.  


Adding the rest of the ESCs

v1/v2 owner need to do this 3 more times.  v3 with the 4-in-1 should go make a sandwich or something, ya know.

Rinse and repeat until you have all 4 ESCs mounted and wired up. This step probably takes the most time of the build. 

Add the rest of the ESCs

Add the rest of the ESCs


Some ESCs fit snugger than others.  You may not need rubber bands.

Some ESCs fit snugger than others.  You may not need rubber bands.

Adding ESC retention rubber bands

Another step for v1/v2 models only.  v3 owners should be finishing up with that sandwich about now.

ESCs are held in my rubber bands tucked around the little notches. You can use 2 rubberbands to secure all 4 ESCs.


Mount your motors

Mount the motors in.  Make sure to note the orientation of the wires go TOWARDS the ESC that the solder tabs are facing. 

v1/v2 pictured.  v3 owners just need to orient their motors anyway they want to run the wires to the center.

v1/v2 pictured.  v3 owners just need to orient their motors anyway they want to run the wires to the center.


Keep those wires out of the props!

Keep those wires out of the props!

Tidy up wires

Tidy up your wires with a little zip tie. It's a good idea to solder your motor wires up so they can't get hit.

A feature of the frame is that you can remove the props and take the entire power system can be removed and transfered to another frame without unsoldering anything.


There are multiple different vtx mounts out now including the Firefly with LEDs.  You can mount for your favorite camera 20x20 hole spacing camera mount.

There are multiple different vtx mounts out now including the Firefly with LEDs.  You can mount for your favorite camera 20x20 hole spacing camera mount.

Adding video transmitter

Use the 3mm spacer from the Piko board to the your camera/vtx mount. You can wire your camera/vtx to the 5v line next to your receiver.  DO NOT use the vtx solder points on the Piko unless you are sure your vtx can take the ~12v. 

olt down the hardware and you're ready to setup in Betaflight!

etup here is shown with Winder Wonder Works Rabbit Ears and Loki camera protector.



Betaflight setup

Betaflight setup is very like any other quad.
There are  few things to note.  Since the board is turned 45 degrees, you need to setup Yaw 45 degrees off. Once saved, verify in the setup tab that your quad moves correctly when you tilt it. 

If using the recommended FuriousFPV Mini FrSky RX with SBUS, you need to first set UART3 Seriel RX in the PORT tab. 

Then under the Configuration tab, set receiver mode to RX_SERIAL and in the list to SBUS

Click to enlarge.  Betaflight is always going through updates and may look a bit different but it's the same thing.


Setting up the Receiver Port

If using the recommended FuriousFPV Mini FrSky RX with SBUS, you need to first set UART3 Seriel RX in the PORT tab. 
Then under the Configuration tab, select RX_SERIAL and below that SBUS. 

ow got to CLI and enter
set sbus_inversion = OFF
save

Continue your radio/switch/motor/esc calibration setup and enjoy!

If you don't know how to do all of that, send me a note on the contact page and I can help you out.

Click to enlarge.  


Click to enlarge.

Setting up modes

Well here's a bit of additional Betaflight stuff for ya. 

Modes! To get you started, I usually like to have a switch assigned to AUX1.  You can set it up in Modes to arm the Doinker. Here's I've setup AUX1 to arm the quad and AUX2 to turn Horizon mode on and off.  Horizon mode is self stabilizing EXCEPT when you throw the stick past 50%.  It's good for indoor flips. You will need to check your transmitter manual or youtube on how to setup a switch to AUX channels. It's fairly straight forward.


Calibrating ESCs

To calibrate your ESCs.  Follow these steps:
 1) TAKE YOUR PROPS OFF!
 2) Plug into USB and bring up Betaflight to the Motors tab
 3) Click the enable motor control little button
 4) MAKE SURE YOUR PROPS ARE REMOVED
 5) You can now move the MASTER slider all the way up.
 6) Plug in the battery to your Doinker.  You should hear some extra beeps and music.  When it stops, move the MASTER slider all the way down. It should do more music.
7) Your ESCs are now calibrated!

Click to enlarge.


Go fly your Doinker!

Go fly your Doinker!

Congrats!  You should be well on your way to fly your Doinker!  If you do have any problems and need some clarification, you can reach me on the contact page or on Facebook.  Don't forget to join the Crayon Box FB group and thank you for your support!